Even though the hurricane was still moving through Florida, we knew all our loved ones were safe, so we could finally breathe again and feel good about enjoying ourselves the rest of the time. We couldn't go home yet because the roads weren't open and the traffic would probably be ridiculous even when they were. So we stayed until Wednesday. (It was actually 9/11 on that Monday, and we almost completely forgot about what that meant.)
We had packed pretty well, but we were starting to run out of some essentials, like clean underwear, and there was a laundry service at the hotel, but it was probably more expensive than just getting a few things at H and M, which we could walk to. So we decided to take a little shopping trip, and while we were at it, get the girls a couple $5 dresses. We were already overspending on this trip, so what did it matter, right? The girls and Gabe made their choices, though Eleanora's did not come without a meltdown. They had a very limited selection of underwear for women, so I ended up with a black pair that said "SLAYIN" across the back in large white gothic-style letters. Just what I needed! At any rate, we made it out without too much damage, and we filled the rest of the morning with another streetcar trip to the French Market, just to make sure we got what we needed, and to replace Eleanora's fan that already broke in less than 24 hours. :/
We took it pretty easy for the rest of the day, picking up some healthy food from a market for lunch instead of going out to eat again. We rested for a bit, continuing to check in with family throughout the day, learning that Catie and her family as well as my mom and everyone on the East coast all lost power (and eventually were without it for at least several days), but other than that, no bad news.

During our pre-dinner stroll, we happened upon a small parade and marching band in the street. We ran to catch up to them and joined in. A lady was passing out beads and gave a bunch of purple, green, and gold ones to the girls. We walked a couple of blocks and then the parade stopped while the marching band formed near a building and played for a little longer. It looked like maybe it was for a private party, as only some people were entering the building, and then it all ended and the police asked everyone to move off the street. We still don't know what it was for, but it was fun to get swept up in the excitement of a spontaneous parade.
We had dinner at a restaurant called Tableau (for the second time), and then we walked around to different spots to savor the city. Evie heard bagpipes playing, so we walked toward them, ending up by the walkway along the Mississippi River. It was beautiful by the water - not too cool or warm, and breezy, with the sun beginning to descend. Eleanora climbed around on some steps by the water while Evie took pictures of the sights around her. We walked up on a bridge where a man was playing the bagpipes, and from there we could see a lot of the French quarter - the main square where the artists and musicians were, the mule-drawn carriages, the shops and restaurants. And just below us was a small group of jazz musicians. The mix of bagpipes, brass instruments, and other instruments we had never even seen before was a nice reminder of the eclectic nature of New Orleans. We had tried to get beignets earlier that morning, but the line was too long, so even though we had dessert after dinner, I suggested stopping by Cafe Du Monde on the way home, just to make sure we took part in that tradition. The girls were tired, but I was craving them, and we thought they might enjoy them. We got one small plate of 3 beignets, and they were so rich we didn't even finish them! Evie liked them, Gabe and I could only eat a little, and Eleanora didn't care for them. Oh well. At least we checked that off our list. We made the trek back to the hotel and eventually turned in for bed.
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| View from the river bank. |
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Bag piper behind wedding photographers (there were so many!)
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| Brass band. |
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| The girls with their necklaces from the parade still on. |
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| They loved it! |
The next day was one of my favorites because it was different and unexpected. I had read about a place called City Park that had a play area called Story Land and a small amusement park with an old carousel. Eleanora loves carousels, so I thought it would be a perfect place to go. We thought about getting our car to drive there because it wasn't totally clear how much walking we'd need to do (City Park is a pretty big area), but we saw that one of the street car lines ended there, so we decided to just try that. But first, we wanted to experience a jazz brunch, and I had read about the Court of Two Sisters several times - it seemed to be a sign that we should check it out (I mean, two sisters...right?). It was pricey, and we almost didn't go because of that, but we were walking right by it, and it was about to open, so we just sucked it up and went. We tried to take pictures of the girls under the "Court of Two Sisters" sign, but they weren't really into it. As we walked in, we pointed out all the cool historic artifacts in the walkway, including the "charm gates" that were said to be blessed by Queen Isabella of Spain, and the girls began to get a little more interested. The tables were located in a large, beautiful courtyard with a colorful fountain and a huge wisteria tree with branches that stretched out far and wide, creating a nest-like canopy over the tables. There was a small jazz trio that played music we were familiar with from our swing dancing days. The brunch was a buffet, so we filled up on fresh fruits and cheeses, bananas and cream, ham for Eleanora, grits, jambalaya, and several desserts, including bananas foster, king cake, and bread pudding with ice cream. Not a bad way to start a morning. With full bellies, we walked to the street car stop.
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They both touched the charm gate, in case it was true.
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| Artsy fountain. |
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| Special table under the wisteria. |
This time our stop was on Canal street - the busy street that separates the French Quarter from the business district. There were two street car stops across from one another, and some locals - probably drunk or high and likely homeless - got into a cursing match with each other while we stood and gave dual responses of politely averting our eyes and giving a sort of shrug with a knowing look. Ironically, the man next to us was trying to defend the honor of our innocent young children by telling the lady across the way to shut the f*** up with her language because there's children around. I wasn't quite sure if the correct response was to thank him or pretend like we couldn't hear them, so we just stood there awkwardly for a couple of minutes until the street car came (and the locals stayed on the benches). It's all New Orleans, right?
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| More streetcar fun. |
We took a long ride to City Park, which we realized we had probably been to before when we went to Jazz Fest, because it is where parts of the festival are held. The stop we got off at was at one end of a large park area that included the New Orleans Museum of Art, a playground, a small amusement park, a botanical garden, and Story Land. To get to the places we were going, we had to walk a long way. So we stayed under the trees and strolled along a bayou, slowly making our way there while the girls stopped every now and then to pick up a unique leaf. There was a lot of wildlife in the bayou, including sun bathing turtles, egrets, ducks, lots of trees with hanging moss, and a group of swans! We eventually came to a small playground with a tree that had a huge branch curving down toward the ground. The girls took turns climbing up and walking on it before we walked a little further back. Next we came upon a pavilion with lion sculptures guarding each corner (we think this is where we may have danced before during Jazz Fest). We sat by the water it overlooked and had some snacks before finally walking the rest of the way to our destination.
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| The Bayou. |
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| Turtle island. |
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| Their collection of sticks and leaves. |
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Pretty sure this was the first time I've ever seen real swans.
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| Eleanora and the lion. |
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| Eleanora had some help from Papa getting on the tree branch (yes, that's a branch she's sitting on). |
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| Evie's happy place. |
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| Alice in Wonderland's house. |
We learned that the amusement park was closed on weekdays, and although that was disappointing, it was hard to be too upset because it was already a beautiful place and there were other things to do. We also learned that Story Land, the gardens, and the train that took people all around City Park were free to Florida residents because of the hurricane - what a beautiful gesture! So those were the things we did. Story Land had little play areas inspired by fairy tales and famous stories, like Alice in Wonderland, The Three Little Pigs, Moby Dick, Snow White, and lots more.
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| In Cinderella's pumpkin carriage. |
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Inside Moby Dick.
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| The entrance to the gardens. |
The girls had fun wandering through the different areas for a little while, and then we decided to head to the gardens before catching the train. I personally thought the gardens were beautiful and had an impressive array of botanicals, including various flowers, plants, succulents, and even fruits and vegetables. The girls found some rocks in one area and came up with a whole make-believe game of school based on those rocks. They were almost blind to the actual gardens, but who am I to say what should be appreciated there? Gabe sat near them while they played, and I took the opportunity to walk around the vast area, snapping photos of colorful flowers and lush gardenscapes - even a butterfly here and there. There was also a sculpture garden in the same area, so we walked through there, though rather quickly as the girls were becoming less and less able to carry themselves with their own feet, and we were almost ready to catch our train. We took a quick bathroom break and made it over to the train station. The conductor gave a little spiel about the train ride and asked who all was from Florida - almost all other passengers were, so it was kind of nice to have a little moment of solidarity before embarking on the ride.



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| Organizing her rocks. |
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| There's a butterfly on the white flower in the middle. |
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| Papaya tree...yum! |
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| I tried to grow an eggplant once, and it didn't turn out like this. |
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| Sculpture garden. |
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| One of my favorites. |
We relaxed on the 15-minute open-air ride all around City Park, through the bayou, along the path of old, historic oak trees, near the Museum, through a tunnel, and then back to where we started. By this time we were overdue for lunch, but we weren't sure we could make it all the way back to the street car, only to wait more to find a place to get off and eat. So Gabe had the idea of seeing if the museum had a restaurant, and luckily, it had a good one. We walked over to the museum, and on our way we came upon a large group of different kinds of birds by the water - ducks, geese, egrets, and herons. It was clearly a feeding frenzy, as some people were tossing them bread. We went a little closer to the cacophonous crowd, but decided that might not be the best idea, as some of the very large geese were walking right up to the girls. We headed away as other people tossed more bread and the honking and quacking became even louder. It was quite a sight to see.
We had a nice lunch in a cool and uncrowded cafe with healthy options and decent pricing. It was nice to settle in and refuel before our long walk back to the street car stop. We did not stay to enjoy the museum, although it seemed like a nice one. The girls gained some energy back and we made it fairly easily back to our stop, with Eleanora sprinting ahead and stopping to look back and laugh, only to repeat the same thing over again, while Evie fell behind, picking up leaves and "flowers" (weeds), noticing and appreciating all of nature's little details. It was a moment that captured the two of them perfectly. Our ride back and walk to the hotel were uneventful, and we took our rest. We had another stroll outside and a simple dinner out, repeating our pattern of nights before. We fell asleep for our last night in New Orleans, and planned to leave the next day.
We decided to spend the morning out and walking so that we would be able to rest during the long car ride home. So we went to Louis Armstrong park, which had many noteworthy sculptures, as well as a picturesque bridge and plenty of rocks for the girls to play with. We took some pictures, marveled at some of the sculptures - I tried to give a little lesson on slavery based on one of the sculptures, but I'm not sure how much of it the girls really got. That was our last foray in New Orleans, and throughout it all, we certainly got our fill of adventure, music, food, history, and even a healthy dose of uneasiness at times. We went back to our hotel to pack up and say goodbye to our little room that became our safe haven for the week, and we requested our car for the first time since arriving.
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| The man himself - Louis Armstrong. |
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| Eleanora is there too, if you look close. |
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| Finally got a good picture of a butterfly that wasn't quite so busy. |
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| The girls joined in the parade. |
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| This sculpture helped us explain the Native American heritage of New Orleans. |
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| A sculpture depicting market day at Congo Square during slavery. |
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| Can't get enough of those rocks. |
We weren't sure how far we were going to go or how bad traffic would be - one new concern was that an overpass on I-75 near Gainesville was going to flood due to the rising river underneath, so we figured we'd keep an eye on road closures and get at least as far as Tallahassee and reevaluate then. I offered to drive because I wanted to get across the many bridges we'd need to cross on the way out of Louisiana (for some reason the irrational fear of getting stuck in the middle of one kept creeping up). After a smooth ride out, we stopped to pick up lunch at a Panera, and then settled in for a long ride, the girls with their favorite shows on their devices. The ride was easy and there were really no traffic issues. I realized at some point in Alabama that there was a large crack on my windshield, a little longer than a dollar bill. I knew that was bad because that's the size it needs to be for insurance companies to decide if the whole windshield needs to be replaced or if they can try to repair it (I already had one smaller ding repaired on that same windshield). I don't know when it appeared, but I have a suspicion it was from all the rocks flying around when we were driving on the shoulder on the way there. At any rate, there wasn't anything we could do at the time, and I just kept a nervous eye on it, trying to avoid going over any big bumps, and hoped to get home quickly.
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Just out of Louisiana.
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We still never played the song for the girls.
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You can see the crack in the middle of my windshield. (It was fully replaced a couple days later).
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After driving for several hours, we decided to stop somewhere in northern Florida to stretch our legs and let the girls play. Gabe navigated us to a playground, and although the girls were stuck on their screens and reluctant to go out and play, they eventually found their way to games of chase and tag and imaginary obstacle courses on playground equipment. Since we were not too far from Tallahassee, and I was still feeling pretty good, we decided that we would probably be fine to drive all the way home that day/night. So after getting our fill of freedom, we made a plan to find a place to eat dinner in Tallahassee before driving the rest of the night home. We arrived some time between 7 and 8pm at a sushi restaurant. It was late, but the girls were in the car a lot, so they weren't all that tired (plus we had crossed over time zones at some point, and we were an hour behind on Louisiana time). It was the slowest sushi we've ever received (especially for a Wednesday night), but the food was good and everyone ate. We got the girls' pajamas out and had them change and wash up in the bathroom before leaving, so everyone was set to go.
We got a movie going for the girls, and Gabe took the wheel to get us home. Again, it was a completely smooth ride home, and we didn't have any traffic issues. I-75 never closed where the threat was, although small roads near that area did. We wondered if it was such a smooth ride because people were avoiding 75 on purpose, but whatever the reason, we were so thankful. The girls eventually passed out, and although I tried to doze a couple times, I couldn't, and I mostly binge watched
Insecure or listened to podcasts. We made it home some time around 2am - windshield in tact - and basked in the glory of our untouched home before all heading to bed.
We made it through an intense adventure, and although, going into it, the outcome was unknown and terrifying to think about, all was good in the end. Gabe and I were wonderful partners in it all, and I realized we do really well together when we just have to focus on what matters. I feel almost guilty saying that the trip is already such a wonderful memory, but I think it's because there was so much at stake at first, and we did something out of the ordinary that had a wonderful outcome. I'm just going to leave it at that and not dwell on what could have been, because we know what was.